best viewed with
 |
. Fit
Is In
Sartorial Splendor In Shapely Models
January 1999 Press Release
The idea of fit is returning to men's suits.
The look for Spring '99 is shaped tailoring. Dressy, sophisticated suits in the new Super
cloths -- as well as traditional frescoes, tropical worsteds, and linens -- are all part
of the new elegant approach to business dress that we have seen growing these past several
seasons.
This means paying attention to all the
refined details such as a higher armhole, trimmer waist and slightly longer coat. Softer,
more pliable canvases are used to provide all the lightweight comfort and flexibility of
an unconstructed model, but with a flattering silhouette that sits closer to the body.
Often the coat will have a minimally higher
button stance -- two- and three-button fronts are both popular on single-breasted suits
and jackets -- for a cleaner look. Peak lapels on single-breasteds add a note of retro
sophistication, as do such details as ticket pockets, side vents, and moderately tapered
sleeves. Double-breasteds show a higher waistline as well and the 6 x 2 closure is the
perfect model.
What this adds up to is a longer, trimmer,
more urbane line; definitely a dressier suit and a cleaner silhouette. It is just as
definitely a fashion transition from all the unconstructed, over-sized, rumpled looks that
seem to have been around unflatteringly forever.
It's not difficult to produce an
unconstructed garment, since fit really isn't a criterion. A shaped garment can be readily
accomplished if comfort isn't considered. The feat has always been to do both. This is
where the custom tailor comes into the equation. All those unconstructed and over-stuffed
jackets, swimming with folds of fabric, are easily mass produced since they really are cut
to fit everyone -- which means no one in particular. Now that fit is once again
fashionable, the custom tailor has the decided edge. Custom tailoring has always had the
twin goals of providing both flattering shape and comfort.
When you think about it, it's only fitting.
The Custom Tailors & Designers Association of
America, Inc.
P. O. Box 53052
Washington, DC 20009
(202) 387-7220; Fax (202) 387-771 |
